now i put my order in for : - AEM failsafe wideband - Universal pedal box w/willwood masters (hope this one functions well when set up correctly ) - 3 x brake fluid containers - OMP First-R seat w / mounts still picking up the rollcage saturday, this one im exited about since its a little work to install. all the other parts is regulary fitted in a couple of hours (booooring ) Battery: how small of a battery can i use? i have access to cheap gel batteries, but its rated at 20-24Ah. light and cheap suits me well sorry for all the questions, i will be on building a car again soon ;P
Buy a little more tube, and some steel plates then its a couple of hours work to do welding and painting
Liiiiiike a glove!!!! Glad i not running with distributor when i finnished I do have the option to remote Mount the reservoirs, as i have to with the clutch MC
trying to save some money where possible without cutting to much corners case: got a new ACT/KEP 228mm 4puck clutch disc from a ford sierra cosworth for free, fits 02A flywheel nicely. problem = wrong splines and no pressureplate. i found this on a swedish tuning parts site (mostly volvo ) and it says golf mk2/3 8v + mk4 20v T. is it the same splines on all mk2, 3 and 4? (22,2x28 (7/8x28) Splines) the bolt spacing seem to be the same. so using this with the Vr6 pressureplate, will hopefully be good if the splines on the hub fits.
Moving the lambda nut to recomendated angle, and welded in some more power at the same time. Yes, it will be stainless exhaust when the car is finnished and tested in v1.0 ????
The megasquirt is finished and ready for me to pick up. whooohoo Upgrade: Megasquirt 2 daughterboard 4 ingnition drivers boost control set up for 60-2 lupo/polo triggerwheel. 4 x 115R "1.8T" coils = cheap and easy to find replacement "everywhere" and new harness bundle with loooooong pigtails = no more unnessesary soldering , there will only be 3-4 solders for sensor grounds vs 2 for every single wire i have now. soon finished with welding the rollcage, its not pretty but will be solid. need to grind down a couple of joints and reweld. the strength is possibly good enough but too ugly welds will fail safety inspections quicker than a clean one
going to use some time to get the harness right this time, routing it a little better, hopefully in february sometime. the engine starts and runs on distributor and single coil now, but with a 25yr old coil and fairly big injectors for ms1 it runs rough
This is my idea of a build. Use 2nd hand parts when you can and improvise when you can't. Lots of nice touches here too, well done. For a cheap but effective suspension setup, measure up the inside of the rear beam and go to your favorite wreckers to find a swaybar/anti roll bar off the front of any car that will snugly fit inside the rear beam. You want something around 25mm thick +/- 3mm with 3 straight lines, not squigly as it reduces the effectivness. Make sure you get all the mounts for your "new" swaybar as you'll need to weld them to your rear beam. You should also run stiffer springs, you can save money by using standard shocks for now but when you can afford it buy some decent shocks. Cheap coilovers are just that, cheap and nasty and only good for impressing your mates when parked. These mods together with a good wheel/tyre combo make for a really sweet handling road car that won't break the bank and you can slowly upgrade as you get more money. Cheers Paul
somethimes fashion needs to go before function it`s more that i like the look of 4 coils rahter than the need for coils to support 250-300hp pr cylinder 1.8t coils are way cheaper than a new bosch can coil, and easier to get a hold of at a vw audi track day when 90% runs them and have spares
Yup. I have modded some MS units to run the 4 pin coil over plug. Seem to cope better on higher cylinder pressures.
14 days in the canary Islands does something[emoji14]now i really need to do something to my car before i die from boredome New wiring harness seems like a Nice thing to start with Running 4pin COP i need pullup resistors, what type and size is recomended? And im also using the N75 valve for boost control (if that fails im going for the GM/Saab valve)
Anyone running a racing seat that is Tall and FAT (like me ) that have a good seat to recomend? sure i can loose the weight but my back is quite hard to shorten without extensive surgery my main problem is that the holes for the seatbelts is coming out below my shoulders so if i crash my back will be compressed by the belts, not a situation i will be in OMP TRS XL is to short, my local sparco dealer wont help finding any other seats than the ones they have in stock (made for dwarves and fairys, farting rainbows )
New wiring harness in the making Trying hard to maks things right this time. Waiting for the connectors for coils and polo/lupo triggerwheel. Would you guys think that going from 2" to 2,5" intercooler tubing will garn very much? not liking the steps in the pipes i have now
ok, it`s 2.25 so maybe i shall try to locate 2.25 pipe to get rid of the steps (maybe plan the pipes a little better befor cutting and welding to )
