Corrado 2.0L 16v - GSXR throttle body project

Is there a typo in post 28, that lists suitable injectors

Assuming a 1.8T fuel rail is used:

G60 0 280 150 905 245 cc/min or *49hp each EV1 use with 4bar FPR EV1 77mm Jetronic connector
Saab 2.3 turbo 0 280 150 431 371cc/min or *72hp each known as Bosch RED injectors EV1 77mm Jetronic connector
Volvo B230T 0 280 150 335 300cc/min or *60hp each EV6 61mm Jetronic connector
1.8T "AUM" Code 0280 150 061 317cc/min or *64hp each EV6 61mm Jetronic connector

The 1.8T "AUM" code is evading me when I search, but I keep turning up 0280 156061 serial numbers for the same application

Ben

 

Hi Ben, Yes it is a typo as EV6 units have the middle set of the part# as 155 or 156.
That would apply to the Volvo set as well.

Thanks for spotting.

 

Could be.

I just got the SAAB red tops anyway. They weren't too hard to find. You can buy them new or refurbed from the Mr Injector website as well.

 

83mm high compression Wossner pistons on the way.

80 + vat for a rebore and I should be all set.

 

Oh goody, potentially a 200bhp 16v at last......

 

lol

I'll be honest. I have no idea what sort of bhp I'll be looking at. 1 step at a time with the build so far.

 

So are you going to space the GSXR ITBs out from their standard 80mm centres to the 88mm centres of the 16v inlet ports? There are a lot of different GSXR ITB types and some are siamesed and not designed to be split

It is a good plan to do this if you can because then attaching the ITBs to the inlet manifold is a straight fit. If the inlet manifold runners are made at an angle to match the unmodified 80mm centres the join is far more awkward.
Here are some spacers for the job. Easily CNCed up in a batch.



You just need a few longer lengths of threaded rod to clamp the ITBs back together. And the bonus is the interlinks between the ITBs have enough length to bend the tabs and still engage properly as can be seen in this pic.

 

Any dimensions of those spacers?

Especially the step sections.......

Wasn't sure about the interlocking mech tabs....

Many thanks

 

Just measured them for you.

You need 9 spacers and they have a 12mm outside diameter and a 6mm inside diameter and space the ITBs 8mm.
They have a 2mm protrusion making the overall length 10mm and 2mm recess. The diameters of the protrusion and recess are 9mm.
These protrusions and recesses match the ones on the ITBs and help keep them all aligned and rigid when assembled.
The 3 new lengths of M5 threaded rod will need to be 335mm long.

 

Looks straightforward enough. I think I might just do that to save any hassle. I need to dismantle one anyway due to a wee bit of damage. There was a corroded screw which I had to drill out to remove the plate. They must have been stored somewhere damp or with water sitting in one for a while. I'd rather it was sorted before it goes on my engine so I took it out. I'll have a word with the engineer later and get some threaded bar in the morning.

 

Think my TB's are slightly different from the ones pictured above......

Still joined individuals, rather than siamesed...... thankfully!

From memory, Mine have a flat bar in place of 1 of the 3 threaded rod sections...... Still the same principle though.

Many thanks

Ben

 

Good job I didn't go and buy parts or get anything made. My TBs are very different. I took them apart to have a look at the part that needs to be repaired. I don't think I'll have any issues spacing them though. It'll be simple enough.

So here's the stripdown.







Measurements (might be a bit confusing but makes sense when you sit and see the parts in front of you).
TB inlet side (front)
Inner edge of TB 1 to inner edge of TB 2 = 32mm
Width of TB entrance = 47.9mm
Width of TB exit on Head side = 39.9mm

Holding bar = 290mm x 16.5mm x 3mm (curved edge not included)
Holding bar recesses for clearance cut 2.5mm in from edge.
End to first hole center = 7.5mm
6mm holes in bar
Distance between hole centers (pairs on each TB) = 36mm
Distance between hole centers (between each TB) = 43.5mm

Original injector recessed holes.
13.88mm seat
10.4mm hole

Bolt holding spacers and TBs together.
5.95mm x 260mm

Spacer between each TB
Total length = 28mm
Total width = 14mm
Spacer lip = 2mm from edge leaving 10mm outer edge on protrusion.
I forgot to measure the hole through the center but I suspect it's 7mm.

Original Corrado inlet flange.
Inner edge of inlet 1 to inner edge of inlet 2 = 39mm
Outer inside edge of inlet 1 to outer inside edge of inlet 2 = 137mm
Width of TB entrance = 49mm
Width of TB exit on Head side = 49.7mm

Also the block is stripped and will be going for the rebore this week sometime.




And I stripped, rebuilt and braided the loom for the radiator fan and radiator. I'm probably not going to use the oem standard fan. I have a slimline one but I'm still undecided.


And I gave my gearbox a bit of a clean up finally. This was just done out in the yard with paint thinners and a couple of paintbrushes. It still needs to be finished up properly but all the main dirt is off now.

 

So this was a late 9A engine you have stripped? If so that is good as it should have the 051 103 373 D head.
And another result is you have the OEM forged crank rather than the cast type that is sometimes found in the odd engine.

 

Yes. All my head pics are here: http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249016

When I have the block away at the engine specialists I've been advised to let them polish the crank too. Is there anything else I should get done by them while it's away?

 

If block is getting rebored then I presume it will also be getting cleaned to remove any machining swarf. It is imperative that all the oilways and galleries are spotless and clean after this sort of work because just one metal particle reaching a bearing shell will create havoc.
Most engine shops will be well aware of this but for anyone picking up a block to take home and build themselves it is something to consider.

Polishing the crank journals will probably be a good thing to have done.
Also make sure the new main bearing shells have separate thrust washers. There are some designs that use integral ones and they have been known to cause issues.

 

Well I'd like to think they'd clean it for me. I hope so anyway.

I have all the old bearing shells all laid out. I forgot to take decent pics of them. I have the thrust bearings as well. They all look to be in really good shape. But I presume it's good to put new ones in regardless of the condition of the existing ones?

I wasn't aware the 16v could have the 1 piece bearing shells and thrust washers but i'll make sure I get the same as what was in it originally.

 

I have the same TB's as you bazmcc.......

TB's are at 80mm centres, so I'm just adding 8mm to each of the tubular spacers, and extending the flat bar by the same measurement between the pairs of TB's fixing holes.

The long srew, I thought about threaded bar and a dome nut and washer, just cut it to the right length.

Went to a local machine shop this morning, and got the distinct impression they didn't want my business. All I got was, 'Cant do it this month, lads are snowed under!'

 

My engineer will be able to sort it out in an evening. I just need to decide what way I want to do it. I might get him to make new extended tabs between the TBs rather than bend the existing ones. Then the new ones could be pressed on.

 

Must admit I'm not keen on just bending the tabs..... It'll work, but looks a little messy!

 

Making new interlink tabs will take a lot of effort. Or welding extension pieces on will destroy the nice cadmium plating that they have on them as std.
With regard to bending them there is no real issue with this.
Every Weber carb conversion I have ever done required the interlink between the carbs to be altered because rarely are two setups ever the same distance apart.

On the ITBs in the pic I posted previously I bent one side the full 8mm as the part was actually longer than it needed to be, so when tweaked it became the perfect length for the adjusting screw on the corresponding interlink to engage with.
You could just tweak both sides 4mm but iirc one side is made of thicker material so thought the better for trying to bend that side.

Mine are hardly messy! In fact there was discussion on this previously in Jool's ITB build thread.