Corrado 2.0L 16v - GSXR throttle body project

Discussion in 'Throttle bodies & non-OEM ECUs' started by bazmcc, Dec 8, 2011.

  1. bazmcc Forum Member

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    No problem, i'll get sorted with the hg and the bolts and hope i only need to fit the head once.

    I don't think i want to go to the expense of low comp pistons. That would blow my budget completely open. I already have enough bits to buy for other projects.
     
  2. Joesoap Forum Member

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    The Abf is the better unit to start with but you can get good results from the 9a ;)

    low comp pistons [:s] no no no , you mean high ....work out what cams you are going to use and you can raise the CR by skimming the head to suit your build :thumbup:

    Ps from reading this topic [:[]

    You probably know this already.
    I along with others on here have done the after market 16v cam thing
    But seeing as this is the way you want to go, get your self a set of internal chain wheel verniers as well as your main cam vernier.
    this will give you more scope for setting up :thumbup:

    Elring head bolts from euro car parts part number set 300441860 are 100%
    If you break these your doing something wrong, make sure the bolt holes have no fluid
    in them and are clean also a wee drop of oil round the top washer of the bolt helps.
     
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2011
  3. bazmcc Forum Member

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    Sorry, had a brain fart. I meant high comp.

    I'll go and get head bolts within the next couple of weeks.

    I think i'll go for something like 272 or 276 cams. I'm just keeping my eyes open at the minute to see whats about.
     
  4. bazmcc Forum Member

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    We're on the way
    Head is completely stripped ready for the last rinse or 2 and then it'll be time for porting. I'll also start work on the intake manifold as soon as I remember to do it. Stuck in a decision between using the original flange or getting my engineer to cut me a fresh one from stainless steel. But getting decent cams is high on the priority list at the minute.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. bazmcc Forum Member

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    Engine and gearbox is out for cleaning.

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  6. bazmcc Forum Member

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    Gearbox is off now and the engine block is more or less stripped of all it's external parts. Just the flywheel and clutch and oil filter housing/heat exchanger to remove. Then I'll give it a real good cleaning with all the other parts too. It's a real grimey mess. Not sure where to start with the gearbox. It's got years of grime, leaks, and road crap all over it. Anyone recoomend a method of cleaning? And has anyone heard of Coach Enamel? Apparently it's supposed to be a great paint for engine blocks and it's a good thick hard paint. But I don't know what it's official name is, who makes it, or where it comes from.

    Can anyone recommend any extra mods, changes, or upgrades I should make to the bottom end before I put it all back together after cleaning? I intend to put all new nuts, bolts, gaskets, and seals on as well.
     
  7. G60KG

    G60KG Forum Member

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    carb cleaner is good for loosening up the grime on the gearbox then you could work it with a brush etc..
     
  8. bazmcc Forum Member

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    I stopped using carb cleaner. Even on throttle bodies I would use thinners as it's much more effective on the varished staining. Maybe I was using a crap carb cleaner? The gearbox is really caked up. I'll maybe tackle it tonight if I can muster up the courage for it. I could really do with a big parts cleaner.

    I'm still on the hunt for decent cams for the engine as well.
     
  9. Carbs4ever Forum Member

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    I'd soak it in engine degreaser or similar and then bag it and take it your local carwash and give it a good hot power wash... that's what i do with guttery stuff... then if your wanting an as new appearance the only option is glass blasting.

    on the engine block - kill the rust first - then get some zinc on the block to prevent rust returning and engine enamel on top..
     
  10. bazmcc Forum Member

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    I'm thinking gunk foam and a brush to get the real dirty slime off. It seemed to do a good enough job on the head. I decided I need to make myself a parts washer from a big plastic 220L barrel.

    I have plenty of kurust, zinc primer etc all here. Which engine enamel would you reccomend?
     
  11. Carbs4ever Forum Member

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    Just make sure the block is well clear of rust and any paint will last longer on it - i think holts do engine enamel.. prep is the key - but with the block subjected to so much heat and expansion/contraction any paint finds it tough...
     
  12. bazmcc Forum Member

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    Stripped the oil cooler and filter off and took the clutch, and flywheel off last night. Couple of stubborn bolts but no major problems. I started on cleaning up the back of the block. The results were fairly surprising. The block is pretty much perfect as far as I can see. No rust other than a couple of water marks/surface oxidisation and no flaky paint. Some sort of witchcraft has obviously been going on here. But, I'm still going to finish the job and make sure it's completely cleaned and repainted just for extra protection. Below is a pic half way through cleaning the back of the block. This was well caked in crap but a cup of thinners and a 1.5" paintbrush was all it took to get to this stage.

    [​IMG]

    I also finished my pillar retrim job and got them back into the car last night. Not really relevant to this thread but here's a couple of pics anyway.
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    Last edited: Jan 19, 2012
  13. bazmcc Forum Member

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    Sump has been removed and cleaned properly. Also started on the gearbox but what a mess. It's going to be a long one on the gearbox. I also noticed several cracks around the box and bell housing. Almost like stress fractures but it's really hard to tell how bad they are. I have full faith that the gearbox is fine and works perfectly as it should. Has anyone else found that with the cracks?

    I also went to a local motorfactors to ask about cams and they supply kent cams so i've been having a look at them.

    Prices vary so much. It's incredible one place can charge 90 more than the other for 1 pair of cams.

    I can get Kent 278s for 380 and the vernier belt pulley for 110 which is pretty good. Would be nicer to maybe find them second hand to make them a bit cheaper though.
     
  14. Tristan

    Tristan Paid Member Paid Member

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    any idea why the box is so battered , Baz?
     
  15. bazmcc Forum Member

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    No idea what the deal is with it. When I get it cleaned up a bit I'll take a few pics. The rest of the engine other than a couple of minor dents in the sump (now straightened) is in excellent condition. The underside of the car is perfect. I can only guess that the box has been bottomed out at some stage which may explain a crack or 2. The car has been lowered since I bought it so it may be normal enough. But I'd expect to see dents or scuffs on it if it had been hit hard before.

    However, there's so much dirt and grime it makes it hard to assess. I'll probably know a bit more by the end of tonight. I'm happy enough with the fact that it works perfectly well, even if it is stuck together with grime.
     
  16. bazmcc Forum Member

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    Been slow progress these days. Just grinding, washing, cleaning, etc.

    I got my spare lower manifold cut up so I can get it cleaned up, trimmed, and ready for welding up so I have something to fit the throttle bodies on to.

    Got a couple of brackets cleaned up and zinc primed. Just working my way through them all along with pipes, and other engine bay bits.
    Also you can see the valves after the first stage of cleaning.

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  17. bazmcc Forum Member

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    Been offered a couple of nice sets of cams from a couple of members. Just trying to sort out what to go for.

    Shopping list isn't as bad looking with the cams in it.
    Cam belt and chain gear vernier pulleys still needed.

    And i'll pick up the new head bolts sometime in the next couple of weeks. I have loads of work on so I need to get a lot of stuff out of the way first.

    So here's the 'to do' list of the main things.

    Buy new sump (rather than patch up the thin scraped one I have)
    Get bottom end stripped, honed and rebuilt with new rings, bearings and seals
    Strip out valve guides
    Port and polish head including honing scratched lifter bore
    Buy Cams
    Buy Head bolts
    Clean and paint block
    Finish cleaning and polishing exhaust valves
    Blast and paint front block bracket
    Finish cleaning gearbox.
     
  18. richie_gti Forum Member

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    Any progress with this??
     
  19. bazmcc Forum Member

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    Been pretty busy with all sorts of stuff over the last few weeks. But I'm trying to get the head cleaned up and as I've got my soda blaster working properly we should be all good to go. I'll be doing a few clearance tests with the new cams next week. Then I'll know if I need machining done or if it would be worth buying high comp pistons.

    The bottom end is going to be checked over and stripped and rebuilt with new seals and gaskets.

    [​IMG]
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  20. emery1990 Forum Member

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    Are you still after an ecu mate? Got mine back from toyotech now, he's giving it the all clear, looked like it was just a stupid fuel rail!!
     

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