yeah but dont worry, I measured it for you and it is 10mm further away the rear bracket is fine, but thats another possible way you could move the engine. just not sure if that could impact how the mount works... so if you crack loose all the fixings including lower bolts holding front mount to cross member, lift the engine up at the front and drop the front bolt in. if you can get enough wiggle on it all to get the engine lined up to drop down nice you're good in a nutshell
This is how it is now, with everything loose and pushed to the correct side, but without the 10mm extension on the rear bracket.
Very strange that I measure the same distances from mounting bolt on the motor to the hole on the mount. Then the measurement somehow is too unprecise, I would expect to see at least a bit of change. Don't worry, I am not going to drive with the M10nut-extensions My original purpose of the weekend was to verify the radiator setup, if that is OK then the parts can go to the coater. But it didn't even come to that
sorry I meant the MK2 rear mount was the right way round in he subgrame, flipping it the other way would move the engine just not sure if it would be an issue with how the mount is designed... with the mk3 subframe you want ABF/TDI rear bracket 1H0199354B -> 1H0199354H then that should be close enough to get the front mount bolted up. as I say if you used the abf front bracket you would need to shorten and change the angle of your solid mount thingy. the mk3 bracket is a bit stronger design so its worth it, or just make your own up if you can weld
Hi John, first of all many thanks for your answers, they are highly appreciated on this end of the screen! I actually just turned the mount around, and it does fit! Now I'm about to guess the engine will be inclined again... in the other direction... I also noted that both rear mounts have some play. In time, they need to be replaced, for now, I want to get all the bits together so it fits. I've got the 1H0199354K. Is that one different? Because the problem not being solved with the 6K1 subframe, I'd rather not use that one. I have to admit with the 10 mm extension the holes in the front were indeed lining up, and maybe even enough for some wiggling and a bit of slotting the hole could do it. But if I have to extend the support anyway, I am saving myself money by keeping what I have. Tomorrow 8 extenders will be made at work, 4 in 10 mm length and 4 in 15 mm length. This week I also hope to receive the adapter plate to increase the height of the gearbox support so the engine will be horizontal in the car That's exactly why I am not using the ABF mount. I've got a fitting one for 02A, angled like the 2Y one.
Somebody on a Dutch forum found some usefull information regarding support lengths, leading to a thread on this forum (where else?) Now I need to find the number of the left one. Hopefully is the 535199 354 G60. It's literally in the thread And from this "The mount to go with is the 535 199 354C corrado/passat" I think that should be the left one, then.
yeah thats an old post by me, before I got my 02a and measured it to confirm for myself the K part you have is for MK3 golf with 020 gearbox, so again 10mm too short when used with 02a/j box. A well made spacer setup will do the same job, no need to worry about getting the specific bracket IMO. If you want to get one then you can use any of these 4 part numbers 535199354, 357199354, 357199354H or 535199354C with a MK2 subframe/mount. the 3rd bracket in the piccy above is from an automatic. since the diff on that sits even further away from the engine vs 02a the rear bracket is longer, and front bracket shorter even than the 02a versions
I bought one of each of the above 4 rear brackets way back to confirm for myself they're all the same length, the only differences are with the design of the casting plus some have extra studs moulded on to accept a heat shield
Well, finally the support arm arrived. Directly mounted, and the engine back in the car. It's better, but still not what I am used to. I got the cross beam mounted, but it's not aligned as it should. The outer bolts, which only mount the front beam to the chassis, also do not fit. The bolts which are bolted in the bumper supports do fit, but those holes are a bit bigger. It's stil not how I want it, but that will be adjusted tomorrow. I can also see the rad is able to be moved a few more mm outward. Luckily it clears the airbox, so it's not a problem, but as a perfectionist, I know if it could, it should. Well, my plan is to be able to move the cross beam, then the rad will move along. That might sort it just a bit
Earlier this week I placed the cross beam on its original place and enlarged the hole of the front mount. It only looked like a few mm, but the actual hole became quite big. So I welded a half-moon shaped piece of steel bak (good to practice welding) and the hole is smaller again On the top I also made the arm to hold the radiator. When I was satisfied, all parts were detached, engine built out and the parts ready to be brought to the coater
Had a similar issue with a handbrake lever. Drove me nuts. I was pressure bleeding at a high enough pressure that I had to put a clamp on the reservoir to keep it from blowing off. I would think I had them bled, then after a little use, they would just go away again. Finally found the handbrake cylinder sucking air every time I used it. Probably put 5 liters of fluid through it before I found it.
Small update from last weekend, unfortunately just a few hours could be spent; Picked up the items which are sandblaster and coated. Fitted the Powerflex BS bushes into the crossbeam. Small struggle, but I found a way to work and then it was finished much faster than I hoped They supply a silicone grease now, instead of the usual copper grease (which I always found strange anyway). Put the engine back on the subframe, incl coated lever for the gearbox, also the front beam is fitted with the screws loose to be able to wiggle it. The drive shafts and wheel hubs are on too, which makes the engine ready to be built in again. Yesterday I spent longer than necessary on the gear selector, I already put the cables in the housing but than you can't fit the mechanism, when unscrewing the bolt broke. Although the threads were clean from coating, I think some coating of the end got in the thread, causing the bolt to break. When this was fixed I got the cables back in but not correctly, so the selector wouldn't go left/right. The short term plan is to get the engine in obviously, then place some orders for the last missing parts
Good news, the engine is back in Yesterday evening I was unsuccesfull placing the engine back, as the steering knuckle didn't want to go on the steeringrack pin correctly. I fiddled around quite some time, but in the end I quit. Today my wife helped out a bit, and she even managed to slide it in All the subframe and cross beam bolts are now in and on torque. I had to force the engine into place to get the front in line, but it is all good now. Next challenge is to get the shiftercables into the holder. The holder is coated, and the pieces that are supposed to go in don't want to anymore... Maybe I have to file it out a bit. I hope to get it all connected and sorted this weekend, so I can gather what is missing, order it and have it running before Easter
What do you guys think about the oil hoses, better to leave the long one longer, or try to bend it like in the second picture? I also have a longer hose for the really short one, but nowhere to loop it.
Well, the oil cooler fits OK like that, with a radius of 100mm it isn't a problem really. I fitted the brakes, elektrics, central axle nuts and the exhaust this weekend I don't what happened to the front end, but it it came back quite torn from the coater. You have to apply a decent amount of force to mount out it. I hope the grill will still fit. Some things I did find what I am not so happy about in the moment; Shiftcables het the exhaust where the rubber is around them. How do others avoid this? Due to the engine moving forward, the exhaust is now laying on the heat shield of the steering rack. The angle of the radiator hanging backwards might not be enough to clear the engine support with the hose. This can be altered obviously but I'm afraid then the airbox will be hit again. On the picture status without rad, and you can see the small mod I made for Spa, where I want to drive with an air filter as more noise is allowed
