I know what people say about various Rods, some are great, some are amazing but in a picture they all look the same!l In my motor I have Rosten rods, and the guy was 100% honest of one forum and he gets his made in china. the first batch went though similar test for the quality Nige done,and given the samples tested fine at the first hurdle. The first batch he's not sold one set out of them as the specs were so off!! he's still not sure what to do with them, and then found another supplier he's happy with selling Nige as I see it you have only said the rods as tested are to a point you'd be happy to buy another set, well ideally one! On another note VW had a stage of rods failing in more recent years with no apparent cause, the couple I have seen I have thought about them bolts The head mullered as well?
Any data, showing failure on older 9A/KR/3B 144mm parts as well as 159/21mm ABA/ABF/2E parts? Never heard of IE rods with std issue ARP 2000 rod bolts failing at continuous 6krpm with sustained cylinder pressures of say 300-311psi. Owners are known to run IE rods kits in applications with 7.5K rpm and 430psi of cylinder pressure.
For most normal applications std VW rods are more than strong enough with new H/D rod bolts. I've got a couple of customers budget engines running to 7-7 1/2 regularly and the odd spin to 8k with no issues, that's 1800 engines making 160-180hp on 13:1 using the 144mm KR & later rod with the stronger beam. Tony B runs std 2ltr 159mm rods to 8k & 13:1 with no issues either. After that on engines running over 8k I'd only use Carrillo/Arrow/Farndon rods I'm afraid....on engines running those revs+ and 6-8k to build, using cheap parts to save a couple hundred quid is pure madness. A friend in the trade use to build some VW cup engines....the drivers where quite hard on them to say the least...using the gearbox rather than brakes to slow the car down. They would spin bearings quite regularly due to buzzing them on the down change because the big end would stretch, but they never broke std rods even with 10-11k...yes really...on the tell tale in the ecu. One potential issue I see on yours Nige is the ARP lube....the blue packet lube gives a different torque value to the white packet stuff...I know a man who tested this also...and ARP, Arrow etc now state to use the white packet version only. ARP bolts should also be torqued and released twice before the final 3rd torque to settle them in. Personally for yours Nige I'd be surprised if std ABF rods with ARP bolts weren't up to the job. As for budget type steel rods, I know of some that have worked ok and some that have failed...but for my money I stick to the above.
Mr Hillclimber, for info, I`m running a F/I setup now, peaking at about 0.9 Bar. It`s not high revs that`s the reason I changed from OEM (I only go to 7,000 at the most, usually 6,500) but because of the extra torque being produced. I had ZERO issues with the stock rods on the N/A build, regularly running to 7,200 and 7,400 occasionally. I fitted these VMI rods as I was going F/I. Good info about the different ARP Lube`s, I wasn`t aware of the differences.
Mr hillclimber can you please ask your friend if he knew anyone with the initials LW that was building cup engines in 2003/2004 as I can't find who built my 2004 cup cars engine it's a stroked 1.8 kr pics in my thread Thanks
Nige..I'd still say you'd be fine...I use to see the odd bent rod on RS turbo Escorts 15 years if the owners had the boost up 25psi...15-18psi were never a problem on std rods. Also...43ib/ft torque..really?...I'll check when I get in but im pretty sure ARP bolts are 31ib/ft with the lube..std are only 33ib/ft...mains are 47.
So those are the instructions for counterfeit bolts that is in your kit with components you buy in bulk for about 20 USD per rod from China. Here are the instructions for ARP bolts fitted to Integrated Engineering Rods as I will be using in my 500bhp 16vT with an 8K rpm limit. Forging stamped in China, quality control in the USA. These are the same jobs Nige will be using in his sub 350bhp 16vT.
It can't be just me but does nothing make sense? In most of the posts by gsi_tuning the English is broken and hard to read? Quote Do not know what you got for my bolts that hold no problem over 150 horsepower per cylinder, and now I have a broken bolt, let alone a ridiculous 280 horsepower 4 cylinder. Why did not anyone look at the pictures of the pistons and some thought. No power to make the rod so breaking down of broken bolts. Any sober person who has little knowledge of internal combustion engines can gather 2 plus 2 There is something in the pipe and no one will admit the mistake, if at all aware. It is easiest to spit my merchandise, but the truth remains delusion. You can not convince me that this engine is assembled by a qualified person who knows what is happening. Why do you think it looks like a piston? Search problem really not as easy fictional nonsense. A garage similar performances to give final conclusions is a bit funny and offensive. I comment from the owner of the car rather than the people who have no connection with the case.
Not the author's first language, certainly. I think something earlier in the thread suggested the rods come via Bulgaria. You're right though, unfortunately it leaves the meaning of what he writes very unclear.
I'm not sure that suggesting a 280bhp 4 cylinder engine is 'rediculous' is going to do you any favours, regardless of a language barrier.
You mean, it is absurd for the rods to break in a 280bhp/260lbft 16v engine yes? How do you assemble $25 rods with chocolate bolts poorly? ( you have not responded to my assertion on Chinese suppliers of these parts) Have you read this build thread before suggesting inexperience or bad assembly was responsible for the destruction of an engine, using a cheap rod kit supplied by you?
What are you trying to prove ? At the end of the day one of the bolts let go the other bent and let go The crank then hit the loose rod bending it in two and breaking it While smashing it through the side of the block at the same time There is not one scenario that you come up smelling of roses in all this Explain how you think it was assembled wrong As it has been stated that the procedure that came with the rods was followed The ARP lubricant that was supplied was use and a calibrated torque wrench was used in the fitting of the bolts If I can prove the rod bolt was at fault are you going to pay for the damage ?
No I just build engines all day and night I've spent the last 19 years inspecting and building components for two of the biggest engine builders I'll easy take a look at what is left of the two bolts and give a opinion on what the problem was As for nige I don't know him from Adam never met him
