Well yes, I could make my current setup go to -3, but is Andy saying -3 should be easy with widetrack and no new bolts?
If it isnt widetracked its a must. Andy has done a lot of wide track conversions so will know exact specs you can get. The bolts are available from VW for not a lot, id get them anyway for flexability on future set ups. What PCD you running?
No problem, I will get a few ordered. 37 on my R888 wheels with a 5mm spacer, 35 i think on the federals also with the 5mm spacer. They are Compomotives from an Ibiza Cupra to standard VAG.
Mines on 4 stud wide track, minimum camber I can get is 2.4! Way more than your max 1.8 so I geuss you are running std track. I was running high offset (matching my wide track, track width) wheels before I wide tracked, I have noticed a slight improvement going wide track, it might be cheaper to buy spacers than wide track if your are thinking of going that route. I would not bother increasing the rear track, you want that to slide.
2.4! Holy hell!lol I guess i need to go widetrack then, Bugger, More work! I hope my wheels fit, They are tight on the arch as it is
What et are your wheels? I keep mine std et33 and wide track, this maens the KPI is close to zero and can be adjusted to zero with top mounts. Low ET wheels will throw the KPI right out and make the steering feel vague etc
So is there a way to check for widetrack? I can get the measuring tape out if neededlol I'm pretty close on the arches as it is but the minimum camber I can get puts doubt in my mind.
Easiest way I know is to look underneath. If the ARB is secured to the wishbone like this, its standard narrow track If the ARB is threaded in the end and secured that way (I use spherical bearings, but the method is the same), it`s wide. If you elongate the top slot in the suspension strut, that`ll give you more camber adjustment. Its what I did. I`m not convinced you have to spend a great deal on it at all. The suggestions in this thread will help I`m sure, I don`t run adjustable top mounts, Balljoint extenders or anything like that. I ran the stock wishbones and arb for years, switched to the MK3 widetrack last winter, but it wasn`t night and day. I`m not saying those things won`t help, but you aren`t chasing times, there will always be someone faster, so just enjoy yourself and try and improve your driving. There is more time to be gained on that than anything else. What I would do is try and get a better feel of how the suspension feels. Count the clicks from one extreme to the other, then set the front and rear to full soft. Drive a session.Set the front to full hard, drive a session and make a note of how it feels quite different !. Set the front to full soft, rear to full hard and drive another session. Now set them to the middle, drive, leave at middle and set front or rear to one extreme and drive again. A couple of clicks here and there won`t make any noticeable difference, what I did and found it very useful was to go to the extreme, that was you`ll feel the difference, you`ll know that full hard on the rear and soft on the front makes the rear lively, the front grip better etc. I wrote it down and looked back through it at lunchtime, then adjusted from there. You need to try and do it methodically, it only needs doing once so you can tell the difference, from then its just fine tuning. Similar thing with tyre pressures, this is a Toyo post, but applies to any. Changing hot inflation pressures by small amounts can be used to fine tune handling. Reduce Oversteer Reduce rear pressures or increase front pressures Increase Oversteer Increase rear pressures or reduce front pressures Reduce Understeer Reduce front pressures or increase rear pressures Increase Understeer Increase front pressures or reduce rear pressures
Ah, Cheers Nige. Here is a picture of mine I thought you said you were running no front ARB though? Widetrack is +18mm each side? Bad pictures but i don't have a lot of room. Its going to be very tight.
I don`t run an additional REAR ARB. You are running a stock MK2 setup. Absolutely fine, I managed for 5 years with it If you add camber, it`ll tip the wheel in at the top and gives you more clearance.
Nige, thats not true, only the Mk3 5stud setup uses the arb mount like in your second pic. The Passat and MK3 4 stud setups use an arb mount the same as the Mk2 Golf.
Assume its narrow track for now, to be honest, it doesn`t matter anyway. You wouldn`t fit WT, go out and say "wow, this is amazing"
Fair enough, So the plan for the moment is to chop the arches out more. Go as low as i can. -3 Front, -2 rear. A little toe out, Soft on the front, Hard at the rear. And then hold on tight!lol
Matt, just been on the phone to AVO, reasonably helpfull. On the GTX kit You run 400lbs F and 200lbs R Did you fit the rear stub axel spacers in the end?
Wow, It was on my list of jobs to do at lunch. Thanks for that! Yes, 10mm axle spacers on the rear. That was mainly because the R888's and 595's rubbed on spring because they are so wide.
I'd say that AVO were pretty spot on for a stripped out 4cyl car - might want a bit more for a heavier or 6cyl car
