I was thinking the same 150lbs all the way round. But then you would need to rebuild the dampers at the same time. Matt might be better buying a whole new kit built to spec if the funds allow from some one like GAZ. Matt are you planning to run slicks at a later point? Also if you have increased the rear track width then id do the front to match, WT it when you have the time.
It might bounce up and down a bit, with that big Ankor in there, and 'only' 400 lb front springs Sounds mighty fine though! Meanwhile, you might want to add roll cage padding to your to-do list
400lb spring is still a pretty strong spring, especially when using road tyres, its likely the tyre will slide before the spring loads up too much
I think those Federal 595s are more of a trackday tyre - not as extreme as some, but Treadwear 140 Traction AA Temp A (from the pics above) would suggest they're fairly sticky
I run those Federals and 400lbs front springs, the ride is surprisingly forgiving and compliant. And looking at your arch pic, loads of room in there so I would say its just std track.
Nige, have you got any videos to show what you mean here? I feel like if I don't feed the wheel I'll cross my arms or worse, not be able to turn sharp enough and have to reposition my hands mid-turn.
A quickrack does make a difference here, but in general you should be trying to use the minimum lock to get you round the corner, if you're trying for a 'smooth and clean' style, so anything except the tightest corners should be possible, in most cars.
As i explained earlier, In a RHD car you right hand should never leave the steering wheel, opposite on LHD cars. There is nothing wrong with crossing your arms. You should never shuffle at all technically!!! Doesent mean people, inc racers dont do it tho! You should only remove one of your hands in 2 circumstances. To change gear then it must go straight back onto the wheel and if you get to the point when your arms are fully crossed and you can't go any further then one hand may be removed for the split second then be re applied at the exact same point on the steering wheel, when the wheel unwinds itself and the lock is removed. Left hand for turning right and right hand for turing left. If you do loose it then this practice may stop you ending up in the armco. If you ever see anyone shuffle during a tank slapper you will understand and see what mess they get into.
There is a saying 'all crossed up' which referes to someone who has got it all wrong and has to cross arms both ways to regain control of the car. And as Mike says with a quick rack this is less of an issue as well.
Agree with Pascal`s post. I believe this shows what I mean. Watch at 0:15, my left hand comes off, but I keep the Right hand in one place, once I get the car straight, I grip with the left and adjust to the correct position.. Through the next right, I let go to change gear. For the chicane, I keep my hands positioned in the same place for the right and left. [video=youtube_share;XGjUlSVh4ac]http://youtu.be/XGjUlSVh4ac[/video] http://youtu.be/XGjUlSVh4ac Does that help explain it ? When I had the manual rack that was (unknown to me, very VERY stiff), I couldn`t do that, I had to feed the wheel. Now I have PAS, even with less assistance than the VW setup, its easy to keep hand positioning. I suspect if my original rack was OK, I`d have been able to do it with that rack too.
Ha, You just wanted to show off at the save!lol Nah, I agree with what you are saying. Likewise i had a bad rack in there, It was PAS but was not working so was really heavy. This was the first outing with the new PAS rack and its really light, But was also leaking fluid. Thats now all fix though. I was planning on doing a load of changes today but ran out of time, I will sort it in the week If i remember last time i went low-ish the wheels rubbed on the inside of the arch. Like the chassis leg etc. Any idea why?
Might be worth linking this or copying a lot of it into you build thread. Is that an 7j or 8j? Either way you should not get that with a 195 tyre. On my Mk2 track i had back in 2006 i ran 8x16 ET 25 -2.5 degrees negative camber with 225/45/16 Dunlop DO1J's (cut slicks) and had slight rubbing on full lock but only wore off the underseal.
