VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2 Friday, 15 May 2015, 15:17:27. Control Module Part Number: 037 906 024 BE Component and/or Version: DIGIFANT 3.2 1953 Software Coding: Work Shop Code: VCID: 56DF055BA11F 1 Fault Found: 00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2 Friday, 15 May 2015, 15:20:14. Control Module Part Number: 1H0 953 257 B Component and/or Version: IMMO VWZ3Z0T1330550 V00 Software Coding: 09600 Work Shop Code: WSC 00053 VCID: 2A2781ABC5E7 No fault code found. BAMMMMM!!!!!! Shut down and captured code while connected! VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2 Friday, 15 May 2015, 15:24:27. Control Module Part Number: 037 906 024 BE Component and/or Version: DIGIFANT 3.2 1953 Software Coding: Work Shop Code: VCID: 56DF055BA11F 1 Fault Found: 00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 27-00 - Implausible Signal Well, that helped a lot! Couldn't find any other faults.
Caught in the act Three years on and its the first time I've checked diags before getting my hands dirty, feels good to trust the systems now. With Nige's 5V supply info, I'm hoping its not the CPS and will take a close look at terminals and wires first. [YOUTUBE]W87RwW1RDus[/YOUTUBE]
F 1 - red - alarm control unit pin 5, ECU pin 7, park/neutral position switch, starter motor pin 50 3 - blu - alternator pin D+ 4 - brn - vehicle speed sensor pin 3 5 - red - ECU pin 7 (16v) \- red/grn - ECU pin 32 (8v) 6 - blk/red - reverse light switch pin 2 \- blk - Park/Neutal position relay pin 5 7 - blk blue - reverse light switch pin 1 8 - brn/blk - lambda probe pin 2 9 - grn/blk - automatic control unit (rev counter feed) G1 2 - brn/wht - outside air temp sensor 3 - yel/blu - ECU pin 6 (6cyl, 16v), ECU pin 31 (8v) 4 - blk - ECU pin 38 (pre-96 6cyl), vehicle speed sensor pin 1, ignition coil pin 3 (4cyl, pre-96 6cyl), ignition coil pin 5 (post-96 6cyl) 5 - brn/wht - coolant level sender pin 1, earth to engine 7 - blk/brn - ECU pin 9 (pre-96 6cyl) \- blk/wht - ECU pin 9 (4cyl) 8 - red/wht - lambda probe pin 2 (post-96) \- red/yel - lambda heater control relay pin 2 (pre-96 6cyl) \- red/blu - lambda heater control relay pin 2 & 4 (pre-96 4cyl) 9 - yel/blk - ECU pin 5 10- red/blu - ECU pin 23, cam position sensor pin 3, carbon canister valve pin 2, maf sensor pin 3, lambda heater control relay pin 6, EGR valve, fuel injectors (Pre-96 6cyl) \-blk/yel - ECU pin 23 (4cyl), air mass meter pin 3 (8v) 11- wht/blu - Vehicle speed sensor pin 2 12- grn/blk - ECU pin 22 (6cyl), ECU pin 19 (8v) \- grn/wht - ECU pin 22 (16v)
As Nige was told for his Megasquirt application, all VW systems on these applications, run a 5v supply to the hall. It is how I have run my SEM installations for many thousands of miles (including track miles) with no issues. I suspect this being an OEM connection between the crank position sensor and the ECU, I would look for a corroded or poor connection and then if that is well, replace the sensor G28. I do not know which third party supplier distributes these over in your part of the world. Here in the UK I use a TOPRAN sensor. It has been fine for 30k miles for far. Alternatively you can always buy OEM.
those pins are for the speedometer sender in the gearbox for the mk3 clocks, so dont worry about that this is the one I'm currently running, been fine for near 5 years now: http://www.vwsonline.co.uk/car_parts_bristol/037-906-433a.html
RJ, Thanks for clarifying the Speedo... I was collecting info to make life easier and trying to find terminus for them. Im assuming the three connections go back to ECU anyway, so wont be hard to determine with a meter. Toyotec, while Im addressing this should I supply it with 5V? My plan is to once again check the resistence of the CPS, it's said to be around 700K and then goes to open circuit when up to temp hot, so Ill check that. Im leaning toward it being a poor connection from CPS to ECU as you said. I would assume the CPS error would have reported a NO SIGNAL if it's heated up and open circuit. Must thank all you guys for getting me to the stage where I can use the diags, specially RJ as you've been a star since I started with the MK2. Its a lot less stressful knowing where to look when it comes to the dreaded no spark. It was a good feeling to have had the VCDS connected when it failed and threw an error. Tks
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The check is, one of the 3 pins for the ECU side of the CKPS connector should have 5v on it. This comes from the ECU.
I'm taking a close look at the loom from behind the T28 at the moment, want to ensure the spliced earth in loom is good. Earlier in the thread I put a meter across the ECU to CKPS and it was at 12V. RJ confirmed this on his too I think. Its the implausible versus "no signal" that has me doubting the CKPS is faulty as the one I just replaced looks in good condition. Once I get my earths redone and checked back to ECU, Ive measured 26M Ohm on both the CKPS here and will check resistence if it fails when I put it all back together. Its a back breaking task ... might take a day or two and get some good insulation, Silicon tape and re-wrap behind the manifold as well.
Much to do there is ... Bad pic sorry, dead camera battery I'm using the force! Luke my younger son is helping! I've swapped out the temp connector, oil temp, Dizzy hall connector, re-terminated grounds. Colour doesnt matter much with the SEAT loom anyway, I never know what Im getting. Sore back and playing silly bugggers with gas soldering irons, long live heat shrink! Q's The grounds in loom have me confused, are all brown/white and browns grounds? They seem to splice into each other and ground on the head. Can someone remind me what the other temp sender on the block is, the single pole that connects the Black on T28. Now to get it connected, warm up and see if I can capture an error again, then measure the CPS. There's a video online that shows a CPS go open circuit with a cigarette lighter, so I will check if this does the same.
Attached VCDS and started up, all good unti;l she came to temp and threw another CPS Implausible Signal. I checked prior to starting the resistance on the CPS, it was 26M Ohm I then checked after it threw a fault and was 8M Ohm. Ill check again and repeat when cool. The findings aren't conclusive enough but l can replicate the fault, so we're narrowing it down, now's the time to try a 5V feed maybe!
the brown/whites for the various sensors should all splice together then run thru the T28 back to the ecu to earth there, the stock looms dont earth this one to the head though there is a separate thicker brown/white earthed to the head which is for the MFA cluster from G1/5. the single pole temp sensor is for the dash gauge it does sound liek the CPS is the problem, the cheap ebay one I bought did exactly the same thing it would die as soon as the engine got to temp and car wouldnt start again till it cooled
Its the sensor from VWSpares, I think its a topran but cantr be sure, its the one you suggested. http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-index/ckp-cmp-sensor-basics-5 Ive been reading this document, there are methods to test the CPS using DC voltage or Hz mode. Im paranoid there's something wrong with wiring as there's a recurring theme to no spark and perhaps Im frying the CPS.So with the one I replaced, Ill get a gas torchon it and see if I can get it to fail, theres a video showing one switching to an open short. Would there be any issues grounding the brown/whites to the head? Could there be a potential difference in the body and block? Ill clean th main ground on the gearbox to be sure. And.. thanks
nah earthing to the head wont be an issue, I did the same on my mates mk2 abf thinking it was required and had no problems
Im going to check the air temp ground and undo the loom, back breaker removing the hex bolts from the brackets. Wiring is running close to head and away from exhaust manifold. I'm paranoid maybe something is shorting to ground and while Im working the T28 I should check the remaining to air temp and throttle. A while back I wrapped in linen and self fusing silicon tape and its kept them insulated as the spiral wraps I used initially melted in no time. I'll do all the wiring checks and then order another CPS I doubt its an ECU relay as I didnt lose connection to ECU when I captured the faults. So to ensure pin33 the ground (I think) and the two from CPS are checked back to ECU and all I can think of is check the remaining loom and accept another CPS bit the dust again...
Having a good long look at the g3abfecu doc and I notice all the sender earths are grouped and dont ground to the head as does the 221 via 18 in harness which does end up on the head. The ecu then goes back to the battery via T68/1 and I have a tail and ring earthed to the sill as well that I better check... There are other bridged earths in the loom to make it harder to get my head around, for now while I'd like to isolate the sender earths in the harness and check them back to T68/33 and T68/1 to battery. Im not electronic minded and struggle with it, from my way of thinking an inductive sensor that has to allow current to flow smoothly wouldnt like a dirty ground or even one with noise, such as a wiring short somewhere on the body. ??
the '221' in the abf ecu diagram represents the clear plastic lumps in the engine loom covering the crimp where all the sensor earths are crimped together. It s a little confusing at first when you look at the diagram for sure, usually VW wouldnt show the wires going to the ground line at the bottom of the diagram rather it would show them all joint together above that then back to the ECU pin 33. to check the sensors you put 1 probe of your multimeter to ecu pin 33 and touch the other probe to all the other ecu sensor earth wires in turn making sure you have a good 0 resistance figure and/or beep shown on the meter.
Rj, The 221 is looped back on the last page to 18, that is the head grounding point. 220 is the sender earth that goes to ECU pin 33 and then theres a t68 pin one that goes to negative battery and I want to check that isnt ground to the sill/bulkhead. Still trying to con my son into removing the intake brackets to get a look at throttle pot and air temp.
220 - Sender Earth Connection - Back to ECU and Ground via T68/1 to battery F25 - Throttle Valve switch T68/33 Earth - Brown/White T68/21 - Grey/Green G62 - Coolant Temp T68/33 Earth - Brown/White T68/14 - Blue/Brown G69 - Throttle Valve Potentiometer T68/33 Earth - Brown/White T68/40 Pin 2 - Red/Blue G40 - Hall Sender T68/33 Brown/White T68/44 Blue/Green T86/45 Red/Black G42 Air Intake Temp T68/33 Earth - Brown/Blue T68/36 - White/Yellow G28 Crank Angle Position Sender T68/33 Earth - Brown/Blue T68/67 - Green/Black T68/68 - Red/Yellow 221 Engine Earth - In Engine Wiring Harness - Ground via 18 to head T28/25 ISV Charcoal filter Coolant Storage Via T28/25? Speedometer? Heater Element (Crankcase Breather)? 94 Battery - neg Ignition Transformer T68/1 ECU
sorry i meant 220 is the junction point for the sensor earths! 221 is the earth junction for the breather heater and speedometer wires, 18 refers to the hole on the side of the head where the breather wire ring and the G1/5 mfa cluster earth ring both go to. the ecu and coil earth depends on the age of the loom, the early ones they both go to a ring terminal on the scuttle area somewhere, on the later ones they run to the fat battery -ve wire junction with all of the lighting loom wiring (late looms are all 1 big lump with engine and lighting looms combined)
