It's ILLOOMinating! So I have the T28 loom on the bench. It was wrapped as the spiral wrap melted an I wrapped in linen and then silicon self fusing tape which worked a treat. All cleaned up This has me concerned, theres a rogue brown/white. Ill check VAG com for errors. I repaired a few exposed wires REmoved the redundant earth to head REmoved the earths from coil to head I'd also earthd ECU to chassis and ran it to the negative point on chassis just below the battery. Snug as a bug in a rug. I had to make a last minute change as Id spliced the ISV too short... Fixed. The Air temp spliced the supply on a black wire with the ISV (Shared supply?) My concern now is that the diagram point out a sender earths as grouped and the CPS is one of the group in the other part of the loom. Im hoping the T28 sender connections pick up the CPS on the way. Good news is that most all the wiring looked good.. I have a White/Blue and Black rogue pair,. may be A/C so fingers crossed it fires up and behaves. Toyotec, I tried to buy from GSF but the system choked when trying to ship to Australia.
Thanks for keeping me company while I sort through it all, Im pleased with it, if I get over this hump, Ill be sweet. I havent even checked if the CPS is loose, it feels a lot better knowing the wires arent too beat up and its amazing how resilient the wiring actually is. While the connectors fails with heat, the wire itself really stands the test of time, impressed! Everyone around me thinks Im a nut for persisting, then again, they all want to drive it. Even the Mrs has never complained, it hasn't lost spark on her!
aye the cps earth joins with the T28 wire on the car side on its way back to the ecu, the IAT earth also taps into this point the spare blue/white and black sound like the speedo sender, if so thats probably what the rogue brown/white is for too
Thanks RJ, then I think Ive covered most all the engine bay wiring and have tidied under dash. Ill be testing it today and if it fails I will get under car and look at CPS and order another. Im hoping a hunch that something is "dirtying" the grounds and with them all joined a potential difference occurs. So I have hopefully wired all senders to earth at the ECU and the ECU to the negative battery terminal.
Purred like a pussycat idling for 15 minutes, got to temp, fans kicked in and then a short while later... Implausible Signal G28 'Time to get another CPS, symptoms are hard to ignore and Im feeling confident about the wiring.
In a good but sad way, the ECU reported G28 NO SIGNAL and bit the bullet I was measuring and my temps were at 102C, a little high I thought... regardless the CPS packed it in well and good this time, I have the other SEIMENS on the workbench and about to do a heat test with it too. Im gong to supply a 7.4V supply and see if I can get it to fail with a heat gun at 100+ C RPM Temperature Voltage Bin. Bits Idle_RPM Coolant_Temp Lambda_Volt Adjust Cond Idle_RPM Engine_Load TB_Angle Opening Value for ISV TIME TIME C V STAMP C V STAMP % % 837 102 0.73 0 0.01 837 102 0.71 0 2.94 837 27.3 0 9.4 And tonight Ive been
the crank sensor reads off a trigger wheel on the crank, if it was that it would just fail altogether I expect I doubt it would come in and out with engine temps though. just sounds like you've been unlucky with the crank sensor you were supplied
I tried to remove the CPS from underneath and couldnt get the chassis mount out of the way and found it was a lot easier to remove the grill and bumper and swing the radiator aside to get it out. There are no signs of any damage to the sensor, Im also going to look into why the temps were at 102c and cross check the temps with a temp gun to be sure its correct. I tried sourcing from the UK, no response so I have to move quickly and sourced a CPS from a parts supplier shipping over night from Sydney.
Ours is a MK2 John, but I didnt want to remove the lower rad hoses as they were in the way. It took Luke and I 15 minutes to remove the front end, we are getting pretty good at it. Wil pick up CPS in the morning.
John, we had removed the AIR con but kept the compressor as we needed it for the belts. The car was delivered with a rusty crushed metal lower hose. So we made a CPS After a lot of research, its common for CPS failures, I suppose as it was with O2 sensors, ignition modules and other modern engine sensors and systems. With all the effort put into the ABF, the thougth of a TSI, with turbo, thinking about it I broke out in a rash when comparing it to how easy it is to work on the MK2/ABF I can't thank you enough for helping get the ECU diags working, even if it was three wires and dead easy, without ever having done anything like that, I was thinking it was a major job. From the very beginning with this car, when we had ECU/NO SPARK I was determined on getting diags sorted . As the Toledo engie didnt come with diag port, I wasnt confident Id ever get it working and was considering a MS system. The the issue arose that with the engine swap, we had to use the original ECU for the car, aftermarket ECUs wont pass. We needed a compliance plate, not just a MOT. SO now Im confronted with the idea of swapping to MS while I still have a working ECU. What are your thoughts?
Woohooo! ImpulsGeber Kurbelwelle MEYLE BOX, Its not got epoxy filled back, it's encased in graphite/plastics.
Wednesday,03,June,2015,20:49:28 037 906 024 BE,,DIGIFANT 3.2 1953 , ,Group A:,'001,,,,Group B:,'002,,,,Group C:,'003 ,,Idle_RPM,Coolant_Temp,Lambda_Volt,Adjust Cond,,Idle_RPM,Inj_Period,Bat_voltage,IAT,,Idle_RPM,Engine_Load,TB_Angle,Opening Value for ISV ,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,, Marker,STAMP,,C, V,,STAMP,, ms, V,C,STAMP,,%,,% ,7.37,891,102,0.76,00000000,0.67,864,2.55,13.22,34,3.61,864,28.9,0.0,7.8 ,17.80,864,102,0.72,00000000,11.13,864,2.55,13.03,34,14.04,891,28.9,0.0,7.4 ,28.28,891,102,0.76,00000000,21.56,891,2.55,13.31,34,24.49,864,28.1,0.0,7.4 ,38.80,891,102,0.73,00000000,32.07,864,2.55,13.50,35,35.03,891,28.1,0.0,7.4 purr purr... The sensor fit without hassles, this time I didnt run the wire up and around the knock sensors. The sensor lead was quite long too, but Ill try a more direct route away from the block. It felt better quality, as I mentioned the sensor was entirely cased and the lead felt hardier. Test fired and then put the nose back on, I soooo dislike the front lower spoiler, bugger of a thing. Then let come up to temp and took for a little drive, there's an occasional miss, I can attribute to plugs, fuel etc so no big deal. Happy the T28 plug had a rewrap and grounds reterminated. Its been a trying experience with the first ECU giving me grief with no start and two CPS senders. The ISV is hanging again, it settles down after driving, unless Ive missed a calibration... Ill tidy the wires tomorrow and look into why my high beam light on dash isnt working. Next task is to get the CV's rebuilt, the boots are trashed and I'll remove the drive shafts complete with CV and send it for a reno.
Obviously I`m late to the party and you`ve got it running, but on my car (with Megasquirt, not sure if it`s the same on OEM), if the CPS is faulty, the rev counter also doesn`t read right. A simple check is when cranking / running is the rpm stable or erratic just before failing. If erratic, that also points towards the CPS. Just for info really, you`ve already sorted it and I didn`t click the thread last week.
Thanks Nige, my fear is if it fails again, there's something wrong with the ECU, Ive been thru the under dash, the engine bay and the engine looms now and studied the diagrams enough to feel confident to say wiring is good. From all the info online Ive seen more ECU swaps fail and CPS swap succeed so my ECU issues were an isolated incident. The real bummer is a CPS disables the car and I was even thinking of mounting a GT40 coil and attempting to fire through the dizzy but I dont know if the ECU shuts down injectors if no engine speed sensed. The 102 Engine temp is troubling me, I must check this and see it rise, the log showed 102c constant, seems a little odd seeing the fans were engaging during the log. Will keep posted. PS: Nige, I get my Tacho signal from the coil and triggered by ECU. RPM will blip on ignition, Im not sure if this is ECU triggered. If it is, the old ECU might have been working. When CPS dies, so does my tacho.
