Glad you've got it sorted I've not commented as I know nothing about ABF engines and and struggle with wiring colourblind . Great news I hope it stays well for you
Way I see it if it was the ecu then a new crank sensor wouldnt sort it, so I recon you can be pretty sure everything is now sorted
Mike Ive been half heartedly documenting the findings as there so many unfinished threads about CPS issues. Add to that, on many cars getting to the CPS isnt easy and there's a tendancy not to want to swap it, but check and test the periphery of the sensor, wire etc. Frustrations grow dancing around the issue and to anyone doubting a CPS, just change it, they fail on lots of cars.
Having changed several TPS sensors last year, I was pretty quick at diagnosing them by the 3rd one. lol
I can completely agree with this sentiment. Having been in the same boat with a brand failed new sensor and the ballache in replacing them I ran several tests on my car before I bit the bullet and just replaced the sensor. It seems the symptoms described are almost always the sensor and unfortunately getting broken ones out of the box doesnt appear to isolated.
Well the crank sensor works, I had left it idling while getting into an RC conversation and she blew a hose or radiator let go. So we got a lift back and have to see what happened tomorrow. Good news is, she was still idling in amongst the cloud of steam!
bloody hell well at least you know you weren't being paranoid about the cooling temps being a little high!
Got lucky again! I stopped by the euro wreckers I got the CPS from and they couldnt help, they dont salvage hoses. The F Piece from pump to oil cooler was fubar. Then I stopped by the Steptoe VW Air cooled specialist and wouldnt ya know it, they had an after market. It was a graphite F piece with crimped rubber hoses, at least its new and it fit. I'll stop by with the three way and see if they have one of them too. While there I saw an exploded view of an ABF and a MK3 16V and there was no sign of this F on the page. Very odd... Anyway, she purring, she not's steaming and Ive had more than enough of doing mechanics in a car park lot. Cheers, I must have put the original one on an still had the one I salvaged, there was confusion as we'd packed up and ended putting two used F pieces in the ever growing parts box.
Two weeks on... The car is firing beautifully, theres a small miss at low revs during idle, specially when it settles at around 900rpm. I attribute the misses to servicing, needs an oil change, spark plug cleanup and gap and perhaps a check thru the ignition leads as Im dead scared removing them. The ignition is perfect through the rev range and at 1000rpm there are no misses, Ill give the throttle body a calibration and set the gap and clean it as well as the ISV. Fuel economy is surprising, where once it would be at 10L per 100km its now down to 7L/100Km so that I attribute to eccnomical driving and good crank signals and replacing the knock sensors. My lights are brighter since rewiring the looms and the drop in ambient temperature has had a dramatic effect on engine temp, so RJ is correct in the ABF having a wide band of temps that it operates at. While idling it can go well past the half way dial, almost 2/3 and then drops once we are moving again. The ambient temps havbe dropped uinder 20c now from a usual 30c in the subtropics, the engine loves the cooler for combustion and reducing temps. For now with normal driving outside of a lot of traffic the temp guage roams slowly between 1/3 and 1/2 way. The MFA shaft button might need attention, my MFA LCD read out is flickering between the two modes on the slider. I had to jiggle and wiggle it this morning to reset the fuel economy, it's no big deal. Oil temps, I've made up a little circuit board to mount the 50 ohm resistor to prevent it breaking off from the oil temp sensor, the resistor legs are quite brittle. So Im a happy little vegemite for now, I think leaving a set of tools in the car full time might have something to do with it. Oil cooler hosing is holding up and the next task is brakes and CV maintenance, will get he pros to do the CVs this time! Cheers h
Update: The Meyle CPS hasnt missed a BEAT and I can highly recommend them as they are completely encased in a graphite housing and not just epoxy back filled. She's got a runny nose, small oil leak somewhere but doesnt trouble me a the moment, it's likely the breather as the hose is a bodge job. On the road she's still lumpy at idle and I put that down to general maintenance but there are no misses when on throttle. Open road 5.6L/100 and City driving under 7L/100. Not sure how accurate the figures are as I manage 600Km per tank on 98 octane Temp wise she gets hot in traffic, but nothing over the top and the 50ohm resistor on the oil temps might be a couple of degrees temp too high. Performance, well she LOVES WINTER... Where in summer after a few kilometers she reaches temp, in winter, she can drive for 10km before she runs at operating temps with oil at ~96c. Lots of power ion tap, engine loves the cooler air and she's putting a huge smile on my face. I havent been game to really open her up as the CV's need attention and if the Golf R Scirocco that was playing with me in a GTI member, please accept my apology for drifting lanes as I didnt know you were in my blind spot and the off camber turn on the damp road had me worried as Im not entirely sure where the grip is at. I'd love to get her on a track day to see where she's really at, though there are a couple of hoses that are quite old and I worry a hard run on a track may be a catalyst for downtime. The home is sold and we are in the hunt for rental properties with a shed to allow me to continue with the maintenance. Also, the digital odometer and the analog odometer are slightly out, but who cares! The RE002 potenzas are outstanding on the Koni/HR kit and watching copes run around the Nurburgring, there seemed a little understeer where on ours the front seemed more planted and I attribute that to the tyres. We had cheap as NanKangs on it when it arrived and it was horrible to drive in the wet with massive understeer bordering on dangerous. Not sure what Id do to the softset of Potenzas if I lapped around Nurbuirgring, Id assume it would be an expensive exercise! So it's all good downunder.... couple more weeks and the banks, my stress and a few updates to the car will be in order. Memo to Self Breather hose Source another Oil cooler hose Source a top Radiator Hose Rebuild CVS Brake Pads - Any ideas to improve them would be appreciated Ignition Leads - Because if I dont have spares I will break one for sure Idle Gap and clean + ISV clean Windscreen washer reservoir Heater Matrix and cracks in dash with some interior trimming Find another Meyle CPS as the one I have now I trust. AND FIND THAT RATTLE IN THE HEADLINER!!!
I've looked thru the thread, I dont see anyone mentioning what seems to be an ECU shutdown when Oil Light flashes. Checked connections to pressure sensors, I don't think the problem is there. Theory, I think my pickup needs a clean or one of the pressure sensor is playing silly with me. Oil Light on dash flashing and it fires and ECU shuts the car down with Oil Light still flashing. After a few attempts it starts again. Engine is purring and changed Oil/Filter with decent oil rated for the ABF. Temps are good, I will look thru VCDS and log values once I get settled in and charge the notebook.
The oil warning system is totally separate to the ecu running so the engine will happily carry one even if oil pressure is 0, at least until the bottom end seizes up possibly if it has an immobiliser there is a wiring issue that is affecting both the immob box and dash?
Havent been anywhere near the wiring of late.. All my com ports are in use on the Notebook.. so might have to regedit them unused... will check VCDS once its done. Also number plate lights havent any power. The Fuse3 is good and there's 12v there, so another gremlin to weed out. Good news is, found a clutch and brake shop opposite the CV refab shop that gave me a good quote. Need to look into what clutch they will use. They asked if my flywheel was a dual mass or single mass... ????
we had that on our older lifebooks with bluetooth, it would use all the ports up to somethign like 20 so we had to go into device manager and reassign one of the lower ports for certain old skool serial devices. bit of a pain!
Good news is... NO MORE MR SLOPPY BRAKES... After driving for several years with a spongy pedal, thinking it's just the way it is, decided tp give the system a thorough bleeed and wouldn't ya know it, right rear had bubbles deep in the line. The pedal is now high and brakes are as good as the 06 Polo.. well almost. As for diags, I managed to find the registry entry for com port assignments, edited to ZERO and connected VCDS 00540 - Knock sensor fault - Intermittent. Seems ok now 17978 - Shareware Version - ??? P1570 - 35 -10 - Please register Activate - Intermittent ??? Oooooooooh... RJ how'd you know.... 17978/P1570/005488 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
aha! 35 isnt listed in my error code list, but 10 is indeed intermittent. not too helpful since we already know that try scanning the immobiliser box next see what it has to say
hmm, possibly intermittent comms down to diagnostics wire issue? or worst case the immob box is starting to pack in. it may be an old code perhaps, clear them all and see if it happens again
